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Moroccans Dancing to Global Beat

By Gary Jacobs

THE MESMERISING DRUMS WERE beating in celebration long after Morocco had been beaten. As whistles blew and car horns hooted, they chanted: “You have not lost, you have not lost.” In reaching the African Nations Cup final, the Moroccans had surpassed the expectations of many of their countrymen. They had embraced their team, who are in transition, with fervour, proud that they had done so well.

Yesterday, the Morocco players arrived in Agadir, a costal town, to be greeted by King Mohammed VI before going on to Rabat, the capital, where they will meet members of the government. Win or lose, the final was a day for which they had been waiting a long time.

In recent years many of the country’s sporting achievements have come in athletics, notably Said Aouita, the 5,000 metres Olympic gold medal-winner in 1984, who dominated middle distance running in the 1980s. Morocco were playing Tunisia in only their second African Nations final. Their previous final was in 1976, when they defeated Guinea. Since then, Morocco have cast a frustrated glare as some of the footballing achievements of which they were most proud have been surpassed by Cameroon and Nigeria. Morocco were the first African country to qualify for the World Cup, the first to reach the second round and the first to bid to stage it. They remind you of this, such is their fervour to achieve another first — hosting the World Cup in Africa.

Morocco has bid three times, losing narrowly to the United States to hold the tournament in 1994. Now, with an impressive and passionate campaign to stage the 2010 World Cup, they do not intend to lose again, even though one of their rivals is South Africa.

Around 15,000 people, from far and wide, made the trip to Tunis, including representatives of the government and bid committee. Back home, a few thousand flocked to Gueliz square, in Marrakesh, in the southwest. Some arrived precariously balanced on the roofs of cars and vans, chanting in unison “Moroc, Moroc” to beating drums.

Spirits were fervent, car horns blasted, claxons blared. The anticipation, the tension and the patriotic singing had been building since Morocco beat Mali three days earlier. The national flag was everywhere, waved in the air or wrapped around the shoulders. Other people were caped in cloaks baring the Morocco flag, which was also daubed on many faces. Teenage boys waved banners proclaiming their support for “Morocco 2010”. This was an opportunity for the country to show the world its passion for football.

From the back of the square, in temperatures of 70F, people huddled and squinted for more than 100 metres into the distance at a screen no more than 30ft by 25ft. The distinctive sight of a McDonald’s on one corner on the square is a visual blight upon the new part of the beautiful town, built by the French early in the last century in the traditional deep-rose colour. The culture of Marrakesh, founded in the 11th century as a Berber hub, reflects its Arab-African origins. Now it boasts a cosmopolitan mix of locals, French, Arabs and tourists. It has been the holiday destination for people such as Winston Churchill and Yves St Laurent.

In common with many other big cities, while some Muslim women might wear the burka, younger ones can be seen astride mopeds in T-shirts. Morocco sees itself as much a part of Europe as Africa; as much a part of western culture as Islam.

The diverse philosophies merge in no more a seductive place than Djemaa el Fna square, on the edge of Marrakesh’s medina, where an eclectic mix of music plays as snake charmers, magicians, fire eaters, storytellers, healers and henna painters compete to beguile. Naturally enough, usually bustling, it was somewhat deserted during Saturday’s game. The majority of the shops were closed. Morocco T-shirts were on sale for a starting price of £12, before you haggle, as is common custom here.

Among the labyrinthine streets, many huddled in the entrances to market shops, glued to a small television perched on a stool. Groans rang out when Tunisia opened the scoring. There is friendly rivalry between the nations, not the hostility Morocco has with Algeria. When Morocco drew level, the cheering turned to screaming during the replays and a feeling that they were in control. It quickly evaporated when a mistake from the goalkeeper cost the decisive goal early in the second half.

As nervousness and frustration grew, faces wrinkled, contorted, grimaced, but good humour prevailed in defeat. They were proud of their team’s achievements. Already, though, conspiracy theories were whizzing around for the defeat. They ranged from the referee’s performance to the team losing on purpose to ensure Tunisia’s support for Morocco’s World Cup campaign — that is if Tunisia, who have also bid, are eliminated in the first round of voting. In Casablanca, the country’s economic centre and hot-bed of football, the tens of thousands who had gathered near UN square, many spilling in their hundreds on to the roads nearby, continued to party.

Later, many headed to the bars to celebrate. Some drank alcohol — a proportion of Muslims do in Morocco — but there was no fighting, no aggressiveness, no swearing and no drunkenness. The intoxication of what they perceive as the glory in reaching the final was good enough.

Source: Times Online

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